Cadillac Flathead Tech Contributions

[STDog]

Thomas, you must not have read the story.   

Yeah I stopped after the first 2, when the discussion started, and posted here.

Then went back to the thread and found Russ' later reply.

[38FLATTIE]

Russ, another great thread!

I've got a couple of questions, that i havn't seen answered.

I'm building a balanced cadillac flathead,electronic ignition, with cyclone heads, burrell 2x2 intake, dual exhaust, and a bigger cam. This is all i've come up with to improve the performance.

Has anyone tried different/bigger intake valves, and if so, which ones?how about stiffer valve springs, for the added lift? I probably don't need the springs, but has anyone tried it? How about different 3.5" pistons, that would raise compression .25-1?
What about a better rear main seal, anyone know of one?

Any other tricks that i'm missing, or that someone wants to share?

[fiftyv8]

Sorry Buddy, only guy I know of who has that stuff is aaron from CA.
I am a little to conservative really, as I dont believe these engines would be able to with stand big increases in HP and be reliable, but that is only my take on things.
I like getting the efficiency thing happening as you have achieved with your current mods.

I do believe once efficiency has improved especially torque then it maybe time to look at fly wheels and diff ratios to exploit your improvements.

I know if you are running your engine in a Cadillac body you will still have a weight issue.
However in my case I can exploit less weight in a hot rod project

[38FLATTIE]

Russ, you may be right, and there may not be a lot else i can do!

however, i'm stubborn, or so i'm told, and the quest continues- anyone have anything to share?

Buddy

[fiftyv8]

Guys, I stole this info from another site but thought it was valuable enough to be recorded here for future reference.

John Washburn was kind enough to share this rear main seal tip with me, that he found on another board. It seems that a Mercedes seal, part # 001 997 12 41, is a very good way to go. Here are tips to the install:
We dropped the rear
main cap, loosened the center and front main caps jus enough to let the
crank "droop" a bit, and pulled the old seal out. To refit the Mercedes
seal (which he purchased at NAPA) we used an inexpensive device (also
purchased at NAPA) that works like a Chinese finger toy. It consists of a
spring clamp which is connected to a short wire with a loop around one end.
You put one end of the seal in the spring clamp, pass the wire over and
through the main seal slot, and slowly pull the new seal into place. I was
feeding one end he was pulling on the other. We could tell that the seal
was in place by the resistance and feel of it all. We (gently) pressed it
fully into the groove using the crankshaft so that the rear main cap fitted
correctly and torqued it all down. Hasn't leaked since. I installed mine
with the engine on a stand and the crankshaft out--big difference.
Two additional comments: (1) leave about an 1/8" of seal proud of the main
bearing mating surface, both sides. That will help compress the seal into
the groove when everthing is bolted together; (2) be sure to seal the side
grooves well. I used a foam gasket material that is available from NAPA in
aerosol can. The OEM gasket set will give you two cork strips but they are
difficult to install--esp with the crank still in the engine.

Diagram from 38Flattie
 

[STDog]

Any idea what that tool is?
Name, part number?

[fiftyv8]

That is what I asked and was told it is called a "Sneaky Pete" tool available from NAPA.
Part number unknow for now.
I thought I was the only guy who did not know about these, glad I have company.

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

I like the way they describe the operation as though it is a simple task.

Removing an original one that has been in an engine for years is very difficult the way described, and installing the replacement, an d getting it to seal is just as difficult.

The ONLY successful way I have found is to remove the Crnakshaft and pull outr the old one, and press and roll in the new one, then re-insert the Crank.

Bruce.

[fiftyv8]

Yes, sounds too easy I thought, but a great opportunity to install during an engine rebuild.
From my experience they all end up leaking some time, it is just whether it is sooner rather than later.

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

You have it right.

Rebuild time is the best time, and I believe that the Mercedes Seal is a Neoprene Seal and therefore tons better than the "Wick" type.

Bruce.

[STDog]

That is what I asked and was told it is called a "Sneaky Pete" tool available from NAPA.
Part number unknow for now.

Probably this one then.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis27000.html

I see a KD version as well.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt492.html

[38FLATTIE]

Russ,

Just a couple of things to share here in regards to the clutch. They are hard to get, and spendy when you find them

A 1965-1970 (could be others) 11"pressure plate from a Ford FE motor, 362,360,390, 427 and 428, is the same as the stock Caddy Lasalle. It will bolt right on the flywheel, and is $80 at our local NAPA. It can be ordered online, and shipped anywhere.

The late 1950's International 3/4 ton pickups have the proper clutch disc- 1-1/4 inch, 10 spline center. I know this for fact. I've been told that the Scouts also used this clutch disc, but I cannot confirm that.

A little plug here- www.flatcaddy.com is a site that lists hi-po parts for the flathead Caddy/Lasalle, and is supposed to be up anfd running soon.

Great thread!

[Dr.John]

Now that brings back memories... Sneaky Pete..  the last time i did a job like that was 6 months ago.. and the old seal was a b*%ch to get out... I used a wire frame from a political sign... heavy enough to tap with a hammer but soft enough to make the bend on the top... the car I was working on was a pont GP with a 400 Pontiac motor... I put a chrome oil pan on it too... can't buy a blk one anymore.. I did not remove the crank from the car whatsoever..