Headlight upgade

[STDog]

OK, so here some info on my current, in progress modificaton.

I'm wiring relays to the headlights to brighten them up. Doing it in such a way that 1) it will go back to stick quick and easy. So no wire splices. Instead I'm using parts from a scrap harness and replacing the connectors in the sockets at the lights. 2) under most circumstances you won't notice the change. The relays are to be hidden under the bar across the front that the light frames and grill mount to.

Played with it some and it makes the halogen bulbs much brighter. Problem with teh stock setup is that power comes from the battery to the starter to the fuse box. Then to the light switch, then the dimmer switch, and finally all the way back to the front of the car. Small wires (18ga or smaller) from the fuse box make for a lot of resistance. I've changes the harness under the hood, but the $600+ for the dash harness means it still 35+ year old wires, making the problem even worse.

Got the idea from a place online, but though their kit was a bit pricy. I bought 2 DPDT relays , mountuing bases, and holddown clamps from Switches Unlimited (www.switchesunlimited.com). I got 2 each of : RR2P-UDC12V ($14ea), sr2p-06 ($4 ea) and SR2B-02F1 ($0.36 ea). That plus some 12ga wire, and some scrap connectors.

Still working out the mounting, but it'll be about $75 when done and my likgts will be as bright as any modern car with halogen bulbs.

[guidematic]

Hooking up relays for Halaogen lights is a good idea. The current draw is often higher than the breaker in the switch can handle.

 I did this on my '75 CDV back in the 80's. I also had halogen driving lamps. It worked very well, but unlike you, I hooked the relay to the main feed wire at the dimmer switch. That way it was inside the car and proteced from the elements.

 I used a power window relay for a '74 Impala. We did not have the specilaized relays available back then.

 Mike

[STDog]

Note that I'm using specialized relays, at least not automotive relays  These things get used in elevators and traffic lights!

I've never had trouble with fuses or breakers, just wanting brighter lights, especially on 2 lane winding roads, in the dark, in the rain, like the road I travel going home. Not a street light for miles, and lots of trees that block the moon and starts on clear nights!

Problem with doing it in the car, before the dimmer switch is that you still have rather small gauage wire supplying power to the lights.  I might rewire it using heavier wire later.  If I ever get a conversion kit for to the replaceable bulb style, the relays will be needed as they draw too much power fior the stock wires. The new 100W + bulbs

Painless Performance makes a kit similar to what I'm doing, but it the relay's are only good for 40A (and the fuse is 30A) or 150W. An it sells for $100.

[guidematic]

Admittedly, it was not as a dedicated system as what you are doing, but it worked well. The main reason for it was the same as you. So I could see better on the 2-lane twisting roads up north.

 I never had problems with hot wiring, but if I were to do it today, I would get more involved with the conversion.

I need to do something with my Caprice. The lights on it a adequate to hopeless. Mybe your solution using relays at the lamps would be the cure.

 Mike

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

One of the problems these days with the headlights is the tinted windscreens.

I could have sworn that the lights in my '73 Impala and '70 Ranchero Squire were duller than normal, till I put my head out the window and saw that they were bright.   The full tint in the class does make a difference.

I haven't had a problem with any car hat I fitted with Aircraft Landing Lights, but the Halogens in my Ranchero requried a relay to stop them tripping the circuit breaker.

I think that the main reason that modern cars use so many relays is that they can utilise smaller wiring throughout the car, thus cutting costs.

Bruce.

[STDog]

One of the problems these days with the headlights is the tinted windscreens.

I could have sworn that the lights in my '73 Impala and '70 Ranchero Squire were duller than normal, till I put my head out the window and saw that they were bright.   The full tint in the class does make a difference.

Hmm. Not sutre if my glass is tinted. I know the sides and back are, but I thouth the front had to be clear.

I think that the main reason that modern cars use so many relays is that they can utilise smaller wiring throughout the car, thus cutting costs.

Doesn't save much. You still need decent wire to and from the relay for the device. You just get a smaller wire to control the relay. And relays add complexity. More assempby time, more parts to keep up with, more things that can go wrong, and you have to find a place to put the damned things too.

So I doubt anyone would call them a "cost reduction", and only use them where needed. There's just more needed now. My CDV  has several from the factory; seats, windows, blower, and horn.

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

[quote Hmm. Not sutre if my glass is tinted. I know the sides and back are, but I thouth the front had to be clear.

Any car with Eze Eye Glass has a slight tint all round, and the windscreens have a banded tint at the top.

Bruce.

[guidematic]

That would include most any air conditioned car. But, Eze Eye glass was still an option over and above AC for most cars in the 60's.

 Mike

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

That would explain why my '73 Chev and '70 Ranchero Squire, both with A/C would have been factory tinted, and my '60 has Eze Eye glass but no A/C.

It does help to keep the vehicles cool though.

[guidematic]

 As I remember, GM promoted the glass saying it keeps the car cooler, and protects against the sun, and when you order air conditioning, it aids in the efficiency of the system.

 All at slight extra charge, of coarse.