1967 Deville - Driver's side cyclinder head, what's this hole?

[Cad67Deville]

Wow.  That IS expensive!  I'm not sure I could swallow that but it sure does look nice on your motor.

What can I say, I'm a sucker for a little bling!  Thanks again EZ.

That kickdown switch thats next to the ignition coil, have you ever removed it? I removed mine for my edlebrock and am making a custom bracket and everything for it all. Was yours kinda hard to turn? Or was is smooth?? I really wannna know so if i need to start looking for another one or that I'll be fine with mine

Yes I removed it when I painted the bracket, it turns easily. However at one point it didn't and the part that sticks out next to the carb broke off.  Still on my to do list....

[Cad67Deville]

I'm thinking of replacing the body mounts on my car.  I notice that the driver's side rear mount (rubber donut) under the trunk has become really cracked and brittle.  I've found a source (http://www.classicindustries.com/impala/parts/bm1006b.html) and am just curious on two issues to get your guys opinion:

1. Rubber or polyurethane? Only ten bucks more for the poly. $80 vs &90.
2. Do it myself or take it to a garage that has a lift and have them do it?

[pdxmose]

I'd say the biggest problem you would run into is bolts that break off in the captive nuts.  Especially around the rear axle area.  Either way you choose, save yourself some grief/cost.  Blow out all the dirt and soak them all really well with your favorite penetrating oil a week or two before.

It's not that bad of a job if you have a floor jack or two, some wood blocks, dry space, time, etc.  You only need to pick it up far enough to clear the nose on the mounts, about 1-2".  The worse ones for rust/access are probably the ones that attach the front fenders to the upper bumper corners.

There's not that many items that need to be removed or closely watched.  Brake lines/MC, shift linkage, bat cable and starter ground, tranny cooler lines.  And steering rag joint will probably need to be removed.  Might be able to loosen the gas tank and unbolt the filler tube and let it just hang as the front hangs from the body while the back (fill tube) goes through the frame.  And I think your car still has bumper mounts in the back corner of the trunk that would need to have the bolts removed.

Hopefully this might help you decide on a path.

          ...mose

[Cad67Deville]

Thanks Mose, good tips/advice.

Anyone else have any thoughts on rubber vs poly?  Supposedly the poly is stiffer and makes the car handle a little better and feel tighter.

[Gary]

Trevor
I would shy away from the poly as it would be (IMHO) more likely to squeak.
The rubber lasted for decades and performs well when protected from UV.
And I fail to see how a body mount would affect handling in a full frame car. I  could see how a suspension bushing from poly would enhance handling, but not a body mount.

Gary

[Cad67Deville]

Thanks Gary. Yeah squeaking would suck.

Anybody use new body mounts (rubber or poly) and have feedback to report?

[EZ]

I bought all new body mounts and I went with the rubber ones.  Body mounts don't make the car handle better they just insulate the interior from vibrations.  Polyurethane body mounts would transmit a lot more of the noise/vibrations into the interior of the car in  my opinion.  Stick with the rubber ones.  I think you'll be happier.

[Cad67Deville]

Cool, thanks for the recommendation EZ.  Have a good Thanksgiving!

[Cad67Deville]

A few months later...

I still haven't done the body mounts but I have been driving it regularly.  I felt that the steering seemed a little too vague though and I didn't like the amount of play in the steering wheel.  So I decided to take a look underneath, the steering coupler seemed to be pretty worn, so I took it off and replaced it with a new one from my local auto parts store for $8.61.  I tell this story only to say that if anyone is thinking about doing some routine maintenance, add this one to the list for the safety factor alone!  It took me about 2 hours (I work slow) and two beers and that included running to the store for the part. 

Check out the picture, the holes at 3 and 9 are split on the outsides, at 6 o'clock it is totally split all the way through.

[Gary]

Good work.
I bet you'll feel safer driving it.

Gary

[Cad67Deville]

Yeah Gary, absolutely!  Only wish I would have checked it sooner.

[tedsled66]

Hole-ie crap! A must fix. Thanks for the photo.

[robtroxel]

Tevor,

Thanks for taking the time to chronicle the work you have done on your car!  A first rate job all the way. Stay will the rubber body mount donuts.  How did the starter situation play out?

Regards,

Rob Troxel

[Cad67Deville]

Hey Rob,

Yeah my pleasure to document it, I am glad to have had the help of everyone on this forum along the way.  On the starter, after I hollowed out the heat riser no more hot starting problems, even with the stock starter so that is what I stayed with.