Waterpump

[Hardlanding]

I have to replace mine, in my 66, with a 429...tips tricks, what to look out for??

[The Tassie Devil (Bruce Reynolds)]

Be VERY careful you don't break the long slender bolts as you remove them.

Corrosion built up over the years from internal leaking has been known to cause the bolts to snap off.   Just ask Porter.   He posted the problems he had, and the method that he used to remove the broken threads, with lots of photos.

Bruce.

[Cad67Deville]

Start from page 5 of my thread:
http://www.modifiedcadillac.org/forum/index.php/topic,6500.60.html

[EZ]

Be very careful with the aluminum front cover.  Be very careful with the bolts, especially if they've been in place for a couple decades.
If it were me I'd change the bolts to new ones if at all possible.  I'd also use anti-seize when reinstalling the bolts so they will be EZ to remove
next time.

Another issue you will have is trying to find a single outlet water pump if that's what your car has.  Most parts stores only have the dual outlet
pumps.  An alternative might be to use your original pump and have it rebuilt locally.  Otherwise you have to put a rubber cap on the extra
outlet to block it off and the rubber doesn't last and will eventually leak.

[Hardlanding]

Thanks guys, I am kinda worried about pulling the bolts out...has anybody done this and if you do can you drill and tap them?

[pdxmose]

The crossover pipe has 4 bolts that go into the block.

The pump has four main outer bolts that go through the front cover into the block.  Then there's a half dozen smaller bolts that go into the aluminum front cover.  I didn't have any trouble getting mine apart.  And even if you were to strip one of the front cover holes, I don't think it would be too difficult to tap it larger or use an insert.  If I remember correctly, they are all on the perimeter and there wouldn't be any issue repairing them. 

             ...mose

[tedsled66]

Hardlanding,
I can echo what Devil, 'mose and EZ are saying. I had two bolts break on me and messed me out. The first time I had ever had to tap and re-thread anything. It is do-able and even lasted me about ten years. Be careful and take the right steps. If you run into trouble there is always a way out. Good luck.

Tedsled

[EZ]

I had one of the longer bolts snap in half.  But after you get the water pump and front cover off then you can grab the part of the bolt that is sticking out and turn it
with a pipe wrench or vice grips.  Use a heat gun or propane torch to put a little heat on it and shoot your favorite penetrating oil up in the threads.

I like to use an impact wrench when removing old bolts after soaking them for a couple days in PB Blaster.  The shock of the impact usually breaks them loose without breaking the bolt.  I find that if I use a hand ratchet and socket that the bolt stretches and finally breaks more often because the threads are rusted.

[Gary]

EZ
do you turn the air pressure down some when using the impact? Maybe the impact is rattling the bolt around breaking the rust bonds, but I'd think too much air pressure would also snap the bolt.

Gary

[Carnut]

The impact is the trick. I do not turn down the air pressure, I just "goose" the trigger.

One problem with taking bolts out of aluminum is the aluminum oxide can form little balls and jam the threads. In this case, the bolt will actually turn about a quarter turn before the aluminum oxide jams it. If that happens, you have to turn it the opposite way (tighten) just a bit and loosen it some more.

[Hardlanding]

Thanks guys...

[EZ]

Sounds like Carnut has had the same experience as i have had.  I do not turn down the air pressure either.  And I also use the 1/2" impact gun
when possible rather than the smaller 3/8" impact ratchet.  You want to shock the bolt loose!  If it stops turning then stop, shoot some more penetrating oil
in the threads and reverse directions.  Then reverse directions again and it should come out.